Working Cat Guide

Written By Rachel Gardner

A working cat is reliant on humans but uninterested in being a house pet. These cats may be semi-social or “food friends” but aren’t suited to live in a colony or in the wild. True feral cats are more likely to leave a working home to distance themselves from humans and should not be relocated unless absolutely necessary for their safety.

Supplies/Needs:

  • 36”+ wire crate or dog run/kennel or secured tack room; any enclosed area that is easily accessible to you-but does not have free access to the outside 

  • Litter pan

  • Wood pellet litter 

  • Food and water bowls

  • Cardboard scratcher 

  • Carrier with door removed or similar hiding space 

  • Zipties

  • Large sheet or blanket or similar cage cover 

Timeline:

This is a suggested minimum timeline, every cat will be different, the goal is to have them be comfortable and to build trust. 

  • Days 1-21: cat will remain in their enclosure

  • Days 22-2 months: leave enclosure open and begin to place resources in their permanent locations

Myths:

  • “Working cats don’t need to be fed”, “if you feed them they won’t catch prey”, “they will figure it out”

    • They will continue to “work” for you in exchange for room, board, and meals. If they stop receiving food or water-they will leave to find a steady set of resources.

  • “I need to get kittens so they will stick around.”

    • Semi-social adults are wary of predators, people, and are accustomed to hunting for prey; overtime, they will trust their caretakers and may be willing to socialize. 

  • “Feral cats will attack my children, animals, or livestock.”

    • Feral cats are fearful of humans and will actively avoid confrontation and contact unless provoked; you will rarely see a true feral. 

How to acclimate a working cat:

  • Drill holes in your litter pan and zip tie it to the kennel/crate (if you aren’t using one, a covered box is advised); fill 25% with wood pellet litter. Pellets are easiest to change quickly, absorb most odors, can be composted (or sprinkled around the property to show the cat where “home” is, are low cost, and easy to clean up if they “redecorate” their kennel/enclosure.

  • Stage your crate with the litter pan at the front, add a shelf as a safe space, add the carrier with the door off and facing away from the kennel/enclosure door, and use secure food/water bowls; see diagram below or one of our counselors can help optimize your set up

  • Visit 2-3x per day to check food, water, litter box, and to leave small treats. The goal is to establish trust and thank them for accepting “employment” from you.

  • Tapping on the door and giving a cue word (something unusual like kiwi, lollipop…) will let them know you’re there to provide and he’ll build your bond.

  • After 2-3 weeks, secure the enclosure door open and continue your daily routine of providing food, litter, treats, and water. During this time, you can sprinkle used litter shavings around the property and pick a concentrated area for them to use as a relief station (some caretakers continue to use litter pans or have a specific area for pets to use). Spreading their scent around your property will keep their prey away and show them where they live. 

Ongoing Care:

  • Working cats are most at risk for disease, FELV, Rabies, and RCP vaccines are highly recommended.

  • Regular flea prevention and deworming can be achieved by sprinkling food grade diatomaceous earth (DE) in sleeping areas or you can provide DE and catnip spots for them to roll in monthly.  DE is effective against fleas, ticks, and other parasites-but a monthly topical preventative is best; do what is most comfortable for you.

  • By leaving a carrier or an open, zip-tied trap in their area will make it easier to contain them in the event of an emergency.

  • At minimum you should be providing food and water daily.

Rachel Gardner
Next

Trap-Neuter-Return Resources